Get Stuck In – Bror

Restaurant Bror is not for the squeamish or faint of heart. But regardless of whether it's a bull's skin, testicles or penis, Victor Wågman and Samuel Nutter have the talent to make it taste delicious

“The penis took around two years to put on the menu,” says Samuel Nutter as he darts around the kitchen at BROR, a restaurant in Copenhagen’s Latin Quarter. “We probably did a hundred things with it before we realised you could make it into a crisp.”

Nutter, 30, is from the UK and launched BROR three years ago together with Victor Wågman, 34, from Sweden. The duo previously worked at Noma and when they left, their former boss, René Redzepi, said the pair had: “no investors – just pure talent and huge balls.”

He wasn’t kidding. At BROR, Nutter and Wågman have won acclaim for using animal parts that most diners shun, such as skin, penis and testicles. (Since you’re asking: BROR’s bull’s balls come coated in breadcrumbs and deep-fried, giving them the lip-smacking crunch of a chicken nugget.)

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The glazed beef shank. Yum. Chris Tonnesen

The glazed beef shank. Yum. Chris Tonnesen

If that sounds a little daunting, consider trying the duo’s cooking at one of their Winter Wednesdays – a weekly dinner where guests sit around a communal table and tuck into their “most pampered pieces of meat”, along with side dishes and a drink. Week one saw diners enjoy glazed beef shank, buckwheat pancake, crème fraiche and pickled condiments.

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Of course, if you ask nicely, you may even be able to try the ‘crispy dick’, which appears on BROR’s regular menu as a snack. To make it they boil a bull’s penis for a long time, peel it, freeze it, slice it very thinly, dry it out and deep fry it. “With a bit of work and playfulness, you can achieve results that people actually consider delicious,” says Wågman, smiling. M

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By James Clasper

Contributing editor. @jamesclasper

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