Get stuck in – Penyllan

Food editor James Clasper stops by Bornholm's premier beer establishment to rest his saddle-sore bum

On a recent Sunday evening, two saddle-sore cyclists stopped at the Nordlandet Hotel in Ållinge, a village on the northwest coast of Bornholm. Their destination? The hyggelig bar run by Christian Skovdal Andersen and Jessica Jenkins, co-founders of Penyllan Brewery – Denmark’s only brewery specialising in wild fermentation and wood ageing.

With Abbey Road on the stereo, Andersen – resplendent in a leather apron – held court behind the bar. One of the cyclists savoured the view of the Baltic Sea, crystalline beneath a blush pink sky, while the other sought out samples of beer on tap. A glass of Hopfix – a first-rate IPA – proved suitably thirst-quenching.

tap beers1

Equally satisfying was Violet, an organic ale aged in a champagne barrel and made using 27 kilos of wild plums (“foraged” from other people’s gardens, winked Jenkins). Soft but sour, it paired perfectly with the two dishes shuttled in from the kitchen that evening by Jenkin’s sister – spicy meatballs with barley, carrots, and crème fraîche; and risotto with asparagus, ramps, and pork belly.

As the Beatles bled into the Strokes, and the owner of the local ice cream parlour popped in for a pint, talk turned to the following day’s ride along the coastline. Sensing anxiety, Jenkins recommended the house cocktails, pre-mixed and dispensed from barrels above the bar. An Old Fashioned duly appeared alongside a Negroni – as ruby-red as the sunset over Gudhjem – and the two weary cyclists raised a toast to their hosts’ impending nuptials. M

Penyllan brewery

Havnevej 8D, Tejn


By James Clasper

Contributing editor. @jamesclasper

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